Centuries before the stress of modern life led today's rich and famous to popularize the luxurious spa retreat, the world renowned spa town Karlovy Vary (AKA Carlsbad) was curing some of the most influential men and women in history with its magical waters. From the 18th century Karlovy Vary has frequented not only by the aristocracy, like Peter the Great, Charles VI, Maria Theresa, it has also been a popular getaway for famous writers, musicians and philosophers such as Goethe, Freud, Schiller, Casanova, Marx, Beethoven, Chopin and Mozart. (At least one local likes to joke that Marx found it beneficial to mingle here among the rich and famous in order to better develop his theories of the working class.)

In fact, considering there isn't a sea within 500 km (320 miles), the average traveler would probably be surprised by all the famous visitors enjoying this rather small city, which in recent years hosted the Japanese princess Sayako, Gregory Peck, Allan Alda, Woopi Goldberg, Julia Ormond, Lauren Bacall, Woody Harrelson, Milos Forman, Michael Douglas, Mia Farrow, and that's just to name a few.

Those who choose to do the town as a quick day trip from Prague will surely be disappointed. The "oh so European" atmosphere requires lingering in the thermal pools, strolling along wooded paths, chatting at outdoor cafes and pondering the splendid Baroque and Art Nouveau architecture. As an added bonus, just about all there is to see is lined up conveniently along the exclusively pedestrian town center and set against the backdrop of scenic wooded hills rising up beyond the riverbanks of the Tepla.

Of course, if time permits, there are also a couple of museums, decent shopping and golf, as well as a variety of cultural events, including the renowned International Film Festival. Although any tourist can sip the curative waters at one of the colonnades, the spa treatments are reserved primarily for patients who suffer from diseases of the digestive system and locomotive organs and metabolic disorders, among others. In recent years plastic surgery has been another available treatment that has attracted visitors.

Spas

Karlovy Vary was a spa town before the U.S. was a twinkle in Columbus' eye. The town is said to have been first founded by Charles IV in 1350, although the village of Vary had existed here previously. According to the much-repeated legend, the then Roman Emperor and Bohemian King was hunting deer when one of the royal dogs fell into a pond of scalding water. As the king had previously wounded his leg, he tried soaking it in the water and to his great pleasure found he had been cured. He ordered the former deer-park of the Locket township to be settled, thus beginning the oldest stage of the development of Karlovy Vary from 1350 to 1522.

At that time the popular treatment was basically no more than extended baths in the various mineral waters which became known as "skin eaters". It is noted that patients often spent more than ten hours at a time in the hot springs, in an attempt to open the pores and wash away unhealthy organisms, but resulting in unsightly stains and painfully chapped skin.
Today the spa treatments are far more varied but always focus on walking, water and good nutrition. Each spa town in the area specializes in different diseases, Karlovy Vary being known primarily for problems of the digestive system and metabolic disorders. Most likely in response to the lucrative and popular field of plastic surgery in the West, the first spa laser center, Asklepion, is now another service available here.

This is not the type of intensive and rigorous health spa experience the vacationer will find in Scottsdale, Arizona or Palm Springs, California. Here the procedure usually begins with medical doctors informing patients of the program most suited toward their cure, including how much and from which springs they should drink, the types of baths and massages, as well as which therapies--laser, oxygen, magnetic or electro-should be used. The most well-known spa names are the Grandhotel Pupp, the Bristol Palace and the Imperial Spa Sanatorium, although the visitor should consider shopping around according to individual specifications.

Nearly, but not all of the spa hotels are directly supplied with the mineral water for the bathing therapies. To be certain, look for the Sprudel (hot spring) trademark on the lobby door or check the services signs for a specific hotel. There is a list of spa hotels, facilities and some photos and information listed in the All you need to know and A World Famous Spa guides available in the various information centers. However, the main information center Kur-Info in Vridelni (Sprudel) Colonnade can give first-hand advice and help with booking.

The spa area boasts an amount of three million liters (780,000 gallons) of water and 18 tons of mineral salts delivered from the springs daily. With so many minerals, it's easy to understand why the famed spa cup has such an odd shape. The built-in straw handle is meant to keep the liquid away from the teeth, in order to prevent discoloring and decay, apparently a fact learned the hard way. The water temperatures range from tepid to boiling but the newest spring, Stephanie, opened in 1998 near the spa hotel Richmond, offers cold water for a nice change on a hot day.

The average spa guest stays around 15 nights and guests come here from 74 countries around the world, according to 1998 statistics. That doesn't mean any visitor can't spend a simple luxurious weekend or an entire two months enjoying the spa treatments. A reservation at any spa hotel allows the "patient" access to the various mineral baths and pampering services there, but a medical examination is always a requirement. For the general public a swim in the thermal pool, sauna and massage are possible at the Thermal Spa Sanatorium.

Of course it's true that "spa" can mean different things to different people, but in this region there is definitely variety. Jachymov is nearby Karlovy Vary and is the first radium spa in the world, Marianske Lazne and Frantiskovy Lazne are well-known, but much quieter and Lazne Kynzvart, Konstantinovy Lazne and Kysleka are the smallest spa towns. Considering the peaceful forest, elegant architecture and still reasonable prices, vacationers seeking a spa retreat would be amiss if they didn't consider this destination.

International Film Festival

During the film festival the town fills up with mostly young people and the city council sets up extra camping facilities. It takes place in early to mid July and is gaining more international attention every year. Woody Harrelson's appearance at the 1999 event was a favorite with both fans and photographers.

Recent years have boasted more than 250 films from over 45 countries. Hoards of spectators are joined by numerous directors, actors, journalists and critics who descend upon the town to promote films or simply enjoy the worldly atmosphere. The center of the festival is the Thermal Spa Sanatorium, but the cream of the crop still meet at the Grandhotel Pupp and the Imperial Hotel as they have since the festival's beginnings in1946.

European films account for the largest majority of those presented at the festival, which has a regular "east meets west" program highlighting films from former Soviet bloc countries. A prize is awarded in this category as of 1999. Czech films, of course, get a lot of attention with a comprehensive collection of screenings now taking place in the newly reconstructed Nezvala Theatre. The famous Czech director Milos Forman is a regular at the event.
1999 also marked another first for the festival.

Western involvement was fairly limited before, however now that Variety magazine is cooperating with the organizers that is bound to change. European films were the highlight of Variety's first "The Ten-to-Watch Series" which is designed to showcase new talent. American independent filmmakers typically receive more than their fair share of attention during the "Forum of Independents". Another popular category with the crowds is the regular screenings of students' films.